Introduction
This article is written for international family travelers who are curious about traditional Japanese ryokan stays. If you are planning a trip to Nagano and wondering what a stay in Shibu Onsen is like, this review will give you an inside look at the guest rooms, meals, and hospitality at Sakaeya Ryokan. You’ll discover how family-friendly this ryokan is, what to expect from the dining experience, and why it stands out as one of the best ryokan in Japan.
Arrival in Shibu Onsen
When we arrived in Shibu Onsen, we headed straight to Sakaeya Ryokan. Although check-in starts at 3:00 PM, we arrived about an hour early and left our luggage with the staff. While the three of us enjoyed a private löyly sauna session, the grandparents set out to explore the town and enjoy the public baths.
Guests staying at Sakaeya Ryokan — and most inns in Shibu Onsen — receive complimentary access to the town’s famous public baths, known as soto-yu (communal baths). At check-in, we were given the special key needed to enter them, making it easy to enjoy the traditional hot spring culture right after dropping off our bags.
Sauna Experience
The highlight right after our arrival was the private löyly sauna. This reserved space included not only the sauna itself but also an onsen bath, a cold-water bath, daybeds, bathing chairs, and two washing stations with showers. The entire area is completely private and requires a reservation, making it ideal for families who want to enjoy both sauna and hot spring together without worry.
There are even special accommodation plans that include access to this sauna-equipped private bath at a great value, so we recommend checking the official website for details. We will share a more detailed sauna experience report in a separate article.
Rooms at Sakaeya Ryokan
We were traveling as a group of five, so we reserved two Japanese-style rooms. The photos here show the room we stayed in, with a window view of the surrounding mountains. Sitting on the soft zabuton cushions, we enjoyed green tea and a sweet treat — apple wafers sold in the ryokan’s shop. Our daughter was so happy she claimed her father’s portion too.
In the closet, there were onsen bags prepared for each guest. These were extremely handy for visiting the public baths or the ryokan’s large indoor bath. We packed them with the provided towels, bath towels, and amenities, then changed into our yukata before heading out for a bathhouse tour.
The room was also well equipped. The wide sink allowed our family to brush our teeth side by side, and the toilet came with a heated seat and bidet, ensuring comfort even in winter. A small kitchenette area included dishes, a sink, and an electric kettle, perfect for making green tea or coffee.
There was also a family-sized bathtub in the room. Since it was not supplied with hot spring water, we chose to use the larger communal baths instead. In one corner, a vanity table provided a space for getting ready, and a hanger for bath towels was especially useful. We recommend hanging used towels there if you plan to bathe again the next morning, as having a dry towel makes a big difference.
Yukata Rental Service
In one corner of the lobby, there is a space where guests can select colorful rental yukata. Staying guests can borrow them free of charge, and the designs range from cute patterns to retro styles — much more stylish than the standard yukata offered at typical hot spring inns. Our 10-year-old daughter, who had just begun to enjoy fashion, was delighted to choose her favorite. Wearing a cute yukata while strolling through the hot spring town made the whole onsen-hopping experience even more exciting.
Indoor Bath Experience
Although we could not take photos out of respect for other guests, you can get a clear idea of the baths by visiting the ryokan’s official website. Compared to the extremely hot soto-yu baths, the indoor baths at Sakaeya were set at a comfortable temperature. The carbonated spring in particular was gentle enough that even children could enjoy a long soak. Some of the washing stations had been updated with Refa microbubble shower heads, a well-known Japanese beauty brand. With carbonated water, microbubbles, and natural hot spring water, the baths offered plenty of skin-friendly benefits — especially appreciated by women travelers.
Soto-yu Public Bath Experience
Before dinner, we decided to explore the famous soto-yu baths of Shibu Onsen. The town has nine communal baths, and guests staying at local ryokan like Sakaeya can use them free of charge. Tradition says that visiting all nine can cure every illness, though we quickly learned that the baths are all extremely hot. Not only children but even adults often need to add cold water before entering.
The best timing is right after someone leaves — the water is slightly cooler then. Since the baths are natural hot spring water constantly flowing in, it’s important to use the wooden divider boards to hold back the stream, add water, and adjust the temperature. Once we did that, our daughter was able to soak comfortably, and we were amazed by how deeply warm our bodies felt afterwards.
Dinner Experience
Dinner at Sakaeya Ryokan was truly memorable, especially for the quality of the meat and the thoughtful service. I mentioned that I do not eat pork, and the staff kindly replaced the pork in the hot pot with tofu — an impressive level of care. The beef, on the other hand, was incredibly tender and delicious.
Even beyond the main dishes, the highlight was the rice. In summer, a refreshing hiyajiru (cold broth poured over rice) was served, but the best choice was still the warm white rice. My husband, who has a big appetite, asked for extra servings — and it was no wonder. The rice served at Sakaeya is a premium variety known as koshitsu kenjo mai, a special grade once presented to the Imperial family. Each grain was perfectly shaped and full of flavor, so good that everyone went back for seconds.
The meal ended with a heartwarming surprise: my husband had secretly arranged a birthday cake for our daughter. To our amazement, it wasn’t just any cake — it was a full-sized whole cake, complete with sparkling firework-style candles. Everyone was thrilled, and the room filled with laughter and excitement. This thoughtful gesture perfectly showcased the warmth of Sakaeya’s hospitality. Their attention to detail and generosity are exactly why we find ourselves returning again and again — the omotenashi here is truly exceptional.
Evening Walk After Dinner
After dinner, we joined a summer-only tour to see fireflies in nearby Shiga Kogen. Countless fireflies lit up the night, creating a magical and dreamlike scene. On the way back from the bus stop to the ryokan, we passed the famous Kanaguya, a historic inn said to have inspired scenes from the film Spirited Away. Its atmosphere truly looked like something out of the movie.
Back in town, we discovered a shooting game stall. Our daughter tried her best, but it was her grandfather who surprised us all by winning prize after prize — an unexpected talent that added lots of laughter to the evening!
Breakfast
The next morning, breakfast was another highlight of our stay. We enjoyed bowls of the same premium rice served at dinner — koshitsu kenjo mai, once presented to the Imperial family — accompanied by a wide variety of side dishes. To our surprise, there was even oyaki, a Nagano specialty, which we didn’t expect to see at breakfast. It was filling and delicious, and we left the table completely satisfied.
Afterwards, we headed to the morning bath to refresh ourselves and burn off some of those calories. Starting the day with a soak in Shibu Onsen truly made us feel both energized and relaxed.
Final Thoughts
If you are looking for a mix of traditional atmosphere, comfort, and family-friendly service, Shibu Onsen’s Sakaeya Ryokan is an excellent choice. With warm hospitality, delicious meals, and authentic Japanese rooms, it stands out as one of the best ryokan in Japan for families.
Official Website – Sakaeya Ryokan
Related Links
- ✨ Looking for more hot spring inspiration? Check our Onsen Travel Guide for the best ryokan experiences across the region.
- 🏯 Before heading to Shibu Onsen, consider a stop at Zenkoji Temple in Nagano — a cultural highlight that pairs perfectly with your ryokan stay.
